Island-Hopping Through Estonia's Western Isles: A Journey of Slow Travel and Rich Culture

Experience the Quiet Allure of Estonia’s Islands

Exploring the western isles of Estonia offers travelers a unique perspective on slow travel. This serene region, steeped in Soviet history, rich folklore, and deep reverence for nature, invites visitors to unravel the stories that enrich its landscape. Island-hopping here allows one to truly appreciate the unhurried pace of life, the beauty of its natural surroundings, and the vibrant local cultures that flourish across islands such as Muhu, Saaremaa, Abruka, and Kihnu.

The Adventure Begins: Setting Sail for Muhu

My journey begins aboard the Toll the Great, a car ferry making its way to Muhu island. The ferry glides over still waters towards a flat landscape that seems to blend seamlessly with the ocean, evoking little more than a postcard image. Yet, the stories told of Toll, a mythical hero of Saaremaa, lend excitement to this otherwise calm setting. Legends describe him as a strongman who battled storms and defended against invaders, adding a layer of drama to the idyllic scenery.

Upon arrival in Muhu, I embark on an adventure across the island, which features quiet roads lined with striking spruce trees, leading to charming thatched-roof cottages and rustic wooden farmhouses. Here, I discover Muhu Veinitalu, Estonia’s first winery. Owner Peke Eloranta enthusiastically shows me his vineyard and pours a glass of sparkling rosé. He explains the island’s recent rise in popularity, particularly during the pandemic, when many mainland residents sought out its tranquility.

Nature’s Splendor on Saaremaa Island

The next day, I embrace the opportunity to explore Saaremaa, the largest island in Estonia, connected to the mainland by bridge. Despite its size, the island retains a sense of peace, with minimal traffic and an abundance of nature. My guide, Kairid Toomsalu, leads me into Koigi bog, a protected habitat covering over 10,000 acres, where lush forests and towering trees surround us. The bog is home to diverse wildlife, and Kairid shares local folklore connected to its mystical lakes, emphasizing the Estonian belief in the importance of nature as a shared resource.

As we traverse the wooden pathways alongside the bog's lakes, we spot vibrant berries ripening on bushes, affirming that for many Estonians, foraging is both a cultural practice and a way of life.

Culinary Heritage at Saaremaa Veski

That evening, the culinary experience culminates at Saaremaa Veski, a restaurant located in a historical windmill in Kuressaare. Co-owner and distiller Kaupo Pastak prepares a tasting of locally made schnapps, which reflects the island's agricultural bounty and tradition of mixing berries with spirits. The restored windmill stands as a testament to the region's history, having survived occupation and conflict through the years.

The Stories of Kuressaare Castle

My next stop is the iconic Kuressaare Castle, a structure built in 1340 that bears witness to Estonia’s complex history. As I explore its thick stone walls and intricate bastions, I reflect on how Estonia has preserved its national identity amidst centuries of occupation. Local guide Anu Lomp shares insights into the island's past, highlighting how its isolation during the Soviet era has contributed to the preservation of its natural landscapes and communities.

Discovering Abruka and Its Serenity

An excursion to Abruka Island, accessible only by boat, showcases the tranquil lifestyle of its residents, with a population that varies from seven in winter to 50 in summer. The island serves as a nature reserve, emphasizing the harmonious relationship between the inhabitants and the stunning natural surroundings. Local guide Riho Leppik welcomes me at his home, reinforcing the allure of island life—quiet, natural beauty, and community connection.

Conclusion: Embrace the Adventure

Island-hopping through Estonia’s western isles reveals a rich tapestry of culture, history, and unspoiled nature. From the stories of legendary heroes to the flavors of local cuisine, each island offers a unique experience that invites visitors to slow down and savor every moment. It’s an adventure that not only showcases the stunning landscapes but also deepens the appreciation for the people who call these islands home. Whether it’s the tranquil bogs of Saaremaa, the historic charm of Kuressaare, or the rustic allure of Kihnu, Estonia’s islands await with open arms, beckoning travelers to discover their hidden treasures.